Direct Press Selection | April 2022
[PRESS 4 RED]
Agronomist Maricruz Antolín heads this project that was one of the first in the region to make fully organic and Demeter-certified Biodynamic wines. The winery is also reputed to have featured a one-woman show that explains Biodynamics using mythological gods and extols the connection between Biodyanmic farming, wine, power, peace, and one’s soul. I hope that’s still on the playbill.
Whatever you may think about woo-woo farming, the proof is in the tasting. Her Aglianico is reportedly the first-ever produced in South America. A variety native to Italy’s coastal volcanic Campania region, it seems to be liking Mendoza’s dry, high-altitude plateau, too, judging by the results here. Dark and meaty, it is unmistakably Aglianico, with juicy black cherry notes, black olive brine, cacao nib, and chewy tannins. There’s a peppery lift and solid grip that makes it the most full-bodied red of this month’s lineup. It’s perfect for lamb chops, ragú, or Friday pizza night. Zero sulfur added but also no funk, this is another suave and impressive offering from Maricruz, whose Natural Malbec we also are big fans of. [Jonathan Kemp, March 2022]
