Theres something quietly exciting happening in Champagnegrowers stepping away from the big-house model and bottling wines that speak to place, sustainability, and intention. One of the names thats been generating a bit of a buzz lately is
Chavost
, a small cooperative based in the village of Chavot-Courcourt, just south of pernay.
TheBlanc dAssemblage Brut Nature NVis a great introduction to their thoughtful, no-makeup approach to Champagne. Its a blend ofChardonnay and Pinot Meunierfrom vineyards that have been farmedorganically (without certification)and fermented withindigenous yeasts. No dosage, no added sulfites, and zero manipulation. Just what the grapes give, in the moment.
Historically,
Chavost
was your standard-issue co-op, founded in the 1940s and making bulk Champagne. But around 2019, a quiet revolution started under the leadership ofchef de cave Fabien Collard, who pivoted toward natural practices in both the vineyard and cellar. These days, the wines are a far cry from the co-op blends of oldtheyre vivid, precise, and proudly individualistic.
In the glass, the Blanc dAssemblage leans more savory and mineral than fruity, with tension and grip, but also a really appealing texture from time on the lees. Its Champagne that feels alivezippy citrus and orchard fruit on the nose, chalk and bitter almond on the finish. One to open with cheese, shellfish, or nothing at all.
Theres not much of this wine in the U.S., and its rarely on shelves for long. Definitely worth a look if youre into the grower side of Champagne or just want a bottle that feelsreal.
