Brocard Pierre Champagne Extra Brut Contree Noire 2018

Grower Champagne from the Cote des Bar, the wild south of the region that’s been quietly stealing the spotlight. Thibaud Brocard, fifth generation, refocused the family house on single-vineyard, single-vintage, single-grape bottlings, and this is Pinot Noir at its most transparent: a Blanc de Noirs (a white wine from a red grape) off one organically farmed plot planted back in 1962. Nearly five years on the lees give it depth, and a low-dosage Extra Brut finish keeps it taut and dry. It’s savory, mineral, and serious without a trace of stuffiness. If you think you know Champagne, the Cote des Bar will happily change your mind.